Scala Family Tombs
In 1259 Mastino della Scala was elected
Capitano del Popolo (sort of commander in chief) of Verona. The
decision was taken by the council (sort of local parliament) to
face a moment of difficulty in which the feuds between families
were devastating the city. Mastino did a great job bringing back
peace and stability, but didn't quit at the end of the mandate. It
was the beginning of the brief but intense Signoria
Scaligera (Scala family rule),
one of the first in medieval Italy, which for a century, with ups
and downs, ruled the fate of the city.
In Piazza dei
Signori, the center of Verona's political power
since the 13th century, the della Scala family built their
residence. Next to
the palace, Santa Maria Antica became the
private chapel of the lords of Verona and the
courtyard of the small Romanesque church became their private
cemetery. The first simple and austere red stone
sarcophagi were followed by large and imposing mausoleums,
the Arche Scaligere (literally 'Scala family
arks'), among the most shining examples of Gothic
architecture and sculpture in Italy. Between the first
monumental tomb, that of Cangrande, and the
last,
Cansignorio's one, there are about fifty years
in which architects and sculptors, both Veronese and Lombard,
worked to the completion of these masterpieces.
Cangrande
The first ark to be built was the one of Cangrande della Scala.
The sarcophagus and the monument were placed inside the wall of
the church whose main entrance was moved from the facade to the
side of the building. Entering the church you have to pass under
the ark of Cangrande paying homage to him. The sarcophagus is
supported by sculptures of dogs holding the family coat
of arms, the shield with the ladder
("Scala" in Italian).
On the sides of the stone sarcophagus there are bas-relief
representing the Annunciation and the
victorious battles of the leader of Verona. On the lid there is
the representation of Cangrande on his deathbed.
On the top of the pyramid shaped stone canopy above the
sarcophagus stands the equestrian statue of the Scala
lord, the unsheathed sword, the
helmet resting on his shoulders and a wide smile on his face while
he looks down to the citizens of Verona (and today to many
tourists as well). To protect the statue from the elements, the
equestrian statue was replaced a few years ago by a replica. The
original is now in the Museum of Castelvecchio.
Cangrande is certainly the most famous of the lords of
della Scala. He was a valiant and daring leader who
brought peace and prosperity to Verona, considerably expanding the
possessions of the city. Under his rule Dante
and Giotto stayed in Verona, which at the time
was one of the most prestigious capitals in northern Italy. In
2014 the sarcophagus of Cangrande was opened revealing the mummified
body inside. The autopsy, conducted
almost seven hundred years after his death, has allowed us to
discover that the mysterious death occurred by poisoning,
thus giving rise to a mysterious case of murder still to be
solved. Inside the sarcophagus was found the sword of
Cangrande, now on display at the Museum of
Castelvecchio. The pattern on the precious brocade that wrapped
the body allowed to trace the path of the Silk Roads that
connected the Far East with Italy, bringing into Europe spices and
silk.
Mastino II
The second ark is that of Mastino II. One of the fiercest of the
Scaligeri, it can also be understood by the arrogant and
contemptuous posture of his equestrian statue with the
knight holding his lance completely closed in the armor and
concealed by the helmet, as if he is ready to fight against
anything and anybody. With his despotic ways, the rule of the
Scala family was progressively transformed into tyranny.
Many believe that it was he who had his cousin Cangrande poisoned
to succeed him to the power of Verona.
The square mausoleum of Mastino was built on a corner of the
courtyard of the church of Santa Maria Antica, the work of
Veronese craftsmen of the school of scultptors Rigino d'Enrico and
Giovanni di Rigino. Similar to the ark of Cangrande, on the
sarcophagus is placed the effigy of the lord on his deathbed while
at the top of the cusp stands the equestrian statue, also in this
case a replica, while the original is located inside a tower of
Castelvecchio.
Giovanni della Scala
Of lesser impact than the others but still particularly refined in the sculptural decoration is the ark of Giovanni della Scala. Missing the large stone canopy that characterizes the mausoleums of Cangrande, Mastino II and Cansignorio, it can be seen just inside the iron fence that surrounds the Scala family cemetery, only in Summer it can be seen up close, when it is possible to access the inside of the monumental cemetery.
Cansignorio
Cansignorio is last of the great Scaligeri lords. After having
killed one brother and imprisoned the other, remained alone to
rule over Verona, dedicating himself to the embellishment of the
city. He build the fountain of Madonna
Verona and the Tower of Gardello, but disregarded the
politics of Verona already in decline, that ended up with the loss
of independence soon after Cansignorio's death. At the end of XIV
century Verona was in fact conquered by the Visconti family who,
because of the marriage of Beatrice della Scala, daughter of
Mastino II, and Bernabò Visconti, lord of Milan, claimed rights of
succession over the city.
The ark of Cansignorio (in the picture), with
its polygonal plan, is the most elaborate and
sumptuous mausoleum within the small Scala family cemetery. The
same craftsman from Campione that in those years were working at
the construction of the Duomo of Milan contributed to the creation
of this mausoleum that reminds, albeit to a much lesser extent, to
the most important Gothic cathedral in Italy.
Scala family tombs, being one of the most important monument in
Verona are included in every guided tour of the city.
For further information or to book a tour guide in Verona
do not hesitate and send us an email.